Thursday, April 24, 2014

April 23rd - Day 4 in the Amazon

Our fourth day in the Amazon started out much like the previous one. We woke up before dawn to go to the clay-lick and although we saw many more macaws flying from tree to tree, there were vultures flying overhead as well. Macaws are vulnerable to predators when they are feeding on the clay and the vultures kept them away this time. 

We did however get a dose of entertainment as one macaw flew over to the spot where we were sitting and after checking us out for a bit, decided to hop on to various shoulders to try and snag some crackers. It turns out it was one of the chicos because we saw the identifying tag around him. This time it chose Sydney's shoulders to perch on. I guess the chicos are enamored with EC women : )

After breakfast back at the lodge we were fortunate enough to watch part of the macaw project in action. The researchers bring down the macaw chicks that are still in the nest and check on them every few days. They take measurements and samples and collect data that they later analyse for their research. We saw one of the scientists climb a 40 m tall tree in a harness, send the chick down in a a bucket and we got to watch as they weighed and measured it. It was about 90 days old and already had the beautiful plumage associated with an adult macaw. 

Later we went for a shorter hike around one of the trails we hadn't been on yet. We saw the Kapuk tree, which is the biggest tree in the rainforest in terms of the circumference of its trunk. They grow to 45 m. Listen also pointed out a vine called Ayahuasca - from which shamans prepare a hallucegenic drink of the same name . We got a really good look at a troop of Red howler monkeys and took lots of pictures this time. Overall we saw 5 out of the 7 species of monkeys in the Tambopata area. 

After returning to to the lodge we finished the film Amazon Gold that we had started yesterday.  The film ended on a more positive note as we learned that in 2010 Peru created a Ministry of the Environment to tackle the issues associated with mining and other activities that are resulting in deforestation. In an interview with the film-makers, the Minister observed that 500 years of mismanaging resources can't be changed overnight, and that it will take time to halt these problems. He also noted that providing an alternative means of earning a living was one of the most crucial steps in providing a solution. This is no different from the typical issues with land and resource use in other developing countries; the big difference is that a resource like the Amazon rainforest is what economists would refer to as a 'global public good'. In other words, the rest of the world benefits from the rainforest not only for regulating climate and weather patterns but also because of its remarkable bio-diversity. Many of the medicines we use today are derived from plants that are only found in the rainforest. Thus the world also has much to lose if it disappears. Some progressive countries have engaged in debt-for-nature swaps where a portion of a country's debt to another country is forgiven if the country uses the funds towards conservation efforts. After our visit here, it seems much more action is needed on a global scale to further these efforts and that a global consciousness is warranted from an economic perspective.

After lunch we had time for a brief siesta which some of us took in hammocks (when in Rome....) and then set out for a short boat ride in the hopes of spotting that most elusive of jungle animals - the jaguar. I've been joking with the students that if we see a jaguar, my life will be complete. I'm only kidding of course - just a little bit. Although we didn't spy any more animals the boat ride was pleasant and relaxing and we all enjoyed it immensely. 

Upon returning to the lodge we took our last hike in the rainforest, a night hike where we got to see all manner of exciting insects, arachnids and amphibians. We saw two beautiful bright yellow frogs, a stick insect, large bullet ants (whose bite is as painful as being hit by a bullet), a huge neo-tropical orb weaver spider, lots of other spiders, grasshoppers and then piece de resistance - a gigantic tarantula about the size of my hand who Listen coaxed out of its nest so we could see it. We also learned that the the owl we saw the previous day was a black-banded owl. The rainforest at night was full of interesting sounds and sights but we had worked up a good appetite by then and were glad to call it a night and head in for the amazing meal that was awaiting us at the lodge. 

After dinner we had a brief class session and discussed many of the issues mentioned above regarding the rainforest.  The students seem to like these periodic debriefing sessions as it gives them an opportunity to process and evaluate their experiences. Tomorrow morning we leave at 5 a.m. for our boat ride back to Puerto Maldonado.

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