Machu Picchu did not disappoint. It really does look like the iconic picture on every postcard, a magnificent Inca city shrouded in mist, nestled amongst the cloud forests of the Andes. Due to the fact that it is located in a sub-tropical climate zone, after it was abandoned by the Incas it was essentially overtaken by the jungle which is why the Spaniards never discovered it.
As we started our tour of the city, Daniel related the many theories that abound concerning the existence of Machu Picchu ranging from it being a resort for the Inca king Pachcutec to a place of pilgrimage for the Incas to it's possible astronomical significance. As we walked through the ruins it was hard not to be amazed at the ingenuity of the Incas in terms of engineering (constructing structures that have withstood earthquakes and lasted 500 years) and agricultural innovation (the terraces that allowed them to grow such a variety of crops at such high altitudes).
Daniel pointed out the differences in construction between the buildings used by the king and the priests (built with perfectly cut stones placed togehther to fit like a puzzle) and those for the farmers and workers (made with stones and mortar). The former took much longer to build than the latter.
We also learned about the significance of different buildings such as the Temple of the Sun, the king's residence, the workers's areas, the granaries and the public places. Machu Picchu was crowded so it was a bit of a challenge to spend time in each place without running into hordes of people. A bit like charting out a day at Disneyland so that you hit the most popular rides at the right time and are always one step ahead of the crowds. The Peruvian government regulates the number of permits issued for the Inca trail every day and I'm not sure whether they do the same for Machu Picchu or not, but it sure seems like a good way of accounting for a negative externality. An interesting distraction, and also a bit Disney'ish, were a pair of llama, a mother and her baby, who appeared to have free reign of the site and of course everyone wanted to pose with them for pictures and pet them.
After visiting the ruins we had the option of hiking up Huyana Picchu, that iconic peak that frames the background in every picture of Machu Picchu. We were told it was a 2 hour hike up the mountain and down (the same way up) with essentially all of it being a very steep, in some cases almost vertical, stone staircase carved into the mountain. Daniel referred to it as an endless 'gringo killer'. About 5/6 of the way up there are terraces which he said would be a good place to stop because from that point on the stairs become extremely steep and are very narrow.
Most of us decided to brave the climb and set off not knowing what to expect. It was pretty much as Daniel had described, in some places we found ourselves climbing hand over feet almost like a ladder. The last section from the terrace level up was interesting to say the least. The steps were so narrow and steep you could only put your foot on them side ways. At one point we had to squeeze through a cave to continue further. The feeling of accplishment when we reached the top was exhilarating, as was the view. Of course we took many pictures, some of which you'll see in the blog. The climb down, especially from the very top was a bit harrowing at times but everyone celebrated at the bottom when we all made it down. Another great accomplishment for the group! At that point we said our goodbyes to our Daniel who had skillfully guided us through the entire trek. Many of us had become really fond of him and his ways of motivating us; he would get us going after each rest with the phrase "vamos a la playa" which translates to "let's go to the beach", a phrase we are still using in the Amazon. What an amazing guide and a really nice individual as well. We miss you Daniel : )
After lunch back in Aguas Calientes we took advantage of the hot springs for which the town is named, which was just the relief our sore and aching bodies needed after four days of significant hiking. Later we took a train and bus back to Cusco and arrived safely back, tired but with a real sense of wonder and fulfillment. What a first week and what a great group of students.
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